Welcome to Part 2 of the Drift Throw Crochet Along
Firstly, I just want to say what an absolute joy Week 1 has been already. Seeing your Drift Throws beginning to come to life, watching your colour choices come together, and seeing the Ray’s Room community supporting one another has honestly been so lovely.
If you’re brand new here or haven’t started yet, I’d really recommend heading back to Part 1 first, along with the previous Drift blog posts where I shared the story and inspiration behind the blanket and everything you’ll need to get set up.
This week we’ll be continuing to build texture, colour, and movement into the Drift Throw with Rows 8–13. As always, please don’t panic if there’s anything you’re unsure of - tutorial videos will continue to be shared across my socials over the coming days, for the more unusual techniques like the front post treble and ruffle stitch.
Remember, this CAL is here to be enjoyed. There’s no pressure to keep up perfectly. Take your time, settle into your stitches, and drift along at your own pace.
Here goes part 2 of the pattern...
This pattern is so forgiving - because it's made of so many textures and different stitches, it is possible to lose or add a stitch here and there. For this reason I recommend counting your stitches every few rows to check you're still on track. If not at this point you can adjust and correct your stitch count, in most cases without having to go back. This will ensure your throw doesn't start to get wider or more narrow. Use the Ray's Room Community Groups for support with corrections and adjustments.
Main Rows 8-13
Abbreviations
I am sharing video tutorials for all stitches and techniques used in this pattern according to what’s included in the CAL each week. Scroll to the bottom of the page for direct links to all the Ray’s Room Socials where you’ll find the tutorial videos. Please use my video tutorials to find out how I work the special stitches in this pattern.
Pattern notes
This pattern is written using UK terminology.
Refer to my previous blog for Part 1 of this pattern. You will need to start there before moving on to this blog post, part 2.
Turning chain at the beginning of each row is counted in your stitch count.
Unless stated otherwise - at the beginning of a row after turning chain the first stitch is worked into the stitch at the base of the turning chain. At the end of a row your last stitch is worked into the last actual stitch of the row, not into the turning chain from the beginning of the last row.
All four stitches used to make up one ruffle stitch, count as 1 stitch in overall stitch count.
Row 8 – go back to stitch marker placed at the end of Row 6, you’re going to start here with your throw so that your puff stitches are facing you working in colour A
Take stitch marker out and put your hook back in.
Ch2, sl st into top of last dc from row 7, tr around fp of 2nd htr from row 6, tr around fp of next 2 htr on row 6,
*dc into top of puff from row 7, dc into next stitch, miss top of the next stitch, tr around fp of htr from row 6 that sits directly in the middle of the two puffs above it (this should be three stitches along from the last fp tr you did.*
Repeat from *to* to the tr after the last bobble stitch, then tr around fp of the last two st from row 6 - this will include the ch2 from the start of row 6. (153)
Row 9 – Turn, ch2, miss the first stitch at the base of the ch2 that we would normally stitch into at this point, htr in each stitch to the end (152)
This would be a good place to check your stitch count and make sure you have the right number and make any adjustments needed if not. This will help to ensure the edges of your blanket stay neat and you have the right foundations for the next stitches to come.
Change to colour D
Row 10 – Turn, ch3, tr in each stitch to the end (152)
Change to colour A
Row 11 – Turn, ch2, htr in each stitch to the end (152)
Row 12 – Turn, ch1, *dc in each of the next 4 stitches, ruff in the next 2, dc in each of the next 10 stitches, ruff in the next 3, dc in the next 15, ruff in the next 2, dc in the next 5, ruff in next 1, dc in next 4* repeat * to * x3. Dc in next 5, ruff in next 3, dc in next 5. (152)
This ruffle row above is designed to look random like naturally occurring textures, so if your numbers of dc's between ruffles aren't 100% as the pattern states that's not a problem, as long as you end the row on the correct stitch count. Remember, all four dc stitches included in a ruffle stitch count as one stitch.
Row 13 - Turn, ch2, htr in each stitch to the end (152) - when you come to a dc stitch go under both loops and when you come to a ruffle stitch go under the remaining front loop (the one that doesn't have any of the ruffle stitches in it) of row 11. Do not crochet into the top of any of the four stitches that make up a ruffle stitch.
And just like that, another section of Drift is underway.
I honestly can’t tell you how special it’s been already seeing your blankets beginning to grow and watching this beautiful community drift along together.
Tutorial videos for the new techniques used in this section are being shared across my socials, I advise waiting for the video for the ruffle stitch especially.
And remember, you’re never crocheting alone in this CAL. The Ray’s Room Facebook and WhatsApp crafting communities are there for support, encouragement, questions, and lots of shared crafty joy along the way.
If you’re enjoying Drift and would love to support Ray’s Room and this free Crochet Along, one of the biggest ways you can help is by sharing your work, tagging Ray’s Room on socials, and spreading the Drift love in your local and online crafty communities so more people can discover and enjoy it too.
I'll be back here next week with part 3.
Happy crocheting and happy drifting along.
With love
Tash x
© Natasha Tobin, Ray’s Room. This pattern and all accompanying content were designed and written by Natasha Tobin of Ray’s Room. You are very welcome to sell finished items made using this pattern, but please do not copy, reproduce, redistribute, or claim the pattern itself as your own in whole or in part. Sharing the original blog links and directing others back to Ray’s Room to access the pattern helps support my work and future free Crochet Alongs - thank you so much for respecting that.