Drift Throw Crochet Along - Part 3

Welcome to Part 3 of the Drift Throw Crochet Along. 

Firstly, I just want to say how lovely it has been seeing so many of you enjoying the gentle pace of Drift so far. One of the things I really hoped for with this CAL was that it would feel enjoyable and manageable alongside real life and other projects, so hearing that many of you are able to drift along while still working on other crafty bits in between has made me very happy. 

This week includes a few more rows than previous weeks, but don’t panic - although we’re continuing to learn some beautiful new techniques, many of this week’s rows also build on stitches and textures you’ve already learned in Parts 1 and 2. (If you’re new here head back to ‘The Story Behind The Drift Throw' and go from there) 

I’ve been very mindful throughout this CAL not to overload each section with too many brand new techniques or too many tutorial videos all at once, so this week is all about building confidence, enjoying the rhythm of the stitches we already know, and continuing to layer new texture and movement into your blanket. 

One of my favourite parts of this week is that you’ll also get the chance to go a little bit “maverick” with your texture. Rather than rigid stitch counts throughout, there’s a section where you’re encouraged to vary your dc and puff placements to create more naturally occurring texture and movement within the blanket. 

If that feels a little unusual or even slightly scary - good! Lean into it. Drift was never designed to feel overly perfect or uniform. It’s inspired by naturally weathered textures, shifting coastlines, minerals, sand, and sea, and this section really allows your blanket to begin taking on a life of its own.

And a wise man once said to me, "Tasha, we don't get anywhere in life by sitting around in our comfort zone, do we?!"

As always, tutorial videos for this week’s new techniques will continue to be shared across my socials over the coming days to guide you through. 

Here goes... 

Rows 14-33 

Abbreviations  

I am sharing video tutorials for all stitches and techniques used in this pattern.  Scroll to the bottom of the page for direct links to all the Ray’s Room Socials where you’ll find the tutorial videos.  Please use my video tutorials to find out how I work the special stitches in this pattern. 

Pattern notes  

This pattern is written using UK terminology.  

Refer to my previous blogs for Part 1 and 2 of this pattern. You will need to start there before moving on to this blog post, part 3.   

Turning chain at the beginning of each row is counted in your stitch count.   

At the beginning of a row after turning chain the first stitch is worked into the stitch at the base of the turning chain.  At the end of a row your last stitch is worked into the last actual stitch of the row, not into the turning chain from the beginning of the last row. 

All four stitches used to make up one ruffle stitch, count as 1 stitch in overall stitch count. 

Rows 14-33 

Row 14 - Turn, ch2, htr in each stitch to the end (152) 

Change to colour B

Row 15 - Turn, ch2, htr in each stitch to the end (152) 

Row 16 - Turn, ch2, htr in BLO in each stitch to the end (152) 

Row 17 - Turn, ch2, htr in FLO in each stitch to the end (152) 

Row 18 - Turn, ch2, htr in BLO in each stitch to the end (152) 

Row 19 - Turn, ch2, htr in FLO in each stitch to the end (152) 

Change to colour A 

Row 20 – Turn, ch4, dtr in each stitch to the end (152) 

Row 21 - Turn, ch2, htr in each stitch to the end (152) 

Remove hook and place stitch marker in the loop. 

Put a slip knot on your hook in colour C 

In this next row you get to have some creative freedom and just work some dcs and then a puff at random intervals to create no set pattern, just random texture.  And you can also create even more random texture by varying the number of yarn over pull throughs you do in each puff stitch.  So where as in row 7 we worked 5 yarn over pull throughs to create a puff - in this row I've done some with 3, some with 4 and some with 5.   

Row 22 – DO NOT TURN instead go back to the beginning of Row 21 without turning and start here by working a dc into the second htr from Row 21.   

Then work 1 dc into each of the next few stitches and then start adding the odd puff stitch every few stitches.  Make sure you only work one stitch into each stitch from the row below.  And work anything from 2 to 12 dcs along before adding a puff and making the number of dcs different each time.  Don’t work 2 puffs right next to each other. And as stated above you can vary the number of yarn over pull throughs on your puffs from 3, 4 or 5 each time to create different sized puffs.   

When you get to the other end make sure your last few stitches are dcs not puffs. And work right to the last stitch. (151) FASTEN OFF colour C. 

Row 23 – go back to the stitch marker you put into the loop at the end of Row 21. Take your stitch marker out and put your hook back in so you’re working in colour A. 

Turn, ch3, htr into the top of every dc and every puff from Row 23. Tr into stitch from Row 22 that doesn’t have a stitch in it (152) 

Change to colour E 

Row 24 – Turn, ch3, tr into each stitch to end (152) 

Change to colour A 

Row 25-26 – Turn, ch2, htr into each stitch to end (152) 

Change to colour F 

Row 27 – Turn, ch1, dc in each of the next 4 stitches, ruff in each of the next 2, *dc in each of the next 5, ruff in each of the next 2* repeat *to* until you’ve got 5 stitches left to the end, dc in last 5 stitches (152) 

Change to colour A 

Row 28 – Turn, ch2, htr into each stitch to end (152) when you come to a dc stitch go under both loops and when you come to a ruffle stitch go under the remaining front loop (the one that doesn't have any of the ruffle stitches in it) of row 26. Do not crochet into the top of any of the four stitches that make up a ruffle stitch.

Row 29 – Turn, ch2, htr into each stitch to end (152)

Change to colour D 

Row 30-33 - Turn, ch2, htr into each stitch to end (152)  

And just like that, Drift continues to grow... 

Honestly, seeing your blankets evolve week by week and watching everyone support one another through the CAL communities has been such a joy already. Every time you share your progress photos, colour choices, texture shots, or little crochet moments, it helps bring this CAL to life even more. 

Over the coming days I’ll continue sharing tutorial videos for this week’s new techniques across my socials, including guidance for the alternating front and back loop textures and the more free-flowing texture sections. 

And remember - there is absolutely no such thing as being behind in Drift. Whether you’re fully caught up, taking your time, repeating rows, frogging bits, or simply enjoying the process slowly, this blanket is designed to be experienced at your own pace. 

Please keep sharing your work and tagging Ray’s Room across socials and within your local and online crafty communities. Watching Drift spread further and further has honestly been so special, and every share helps more people discover the CAL and become part of this beautiful community. 

Happy crocheting and happy drifting along! 

With love 

Tash x 

© Natasha Tobin, Ray’s Room. This pattern and all accompanying content were designed and written by Natasha Tobin of Ray’s Room. You are very welcome to sell finished items made using this pattern, but please do not copy, reproduce, redistribute, or claim the pattern itself as your own in whole or in part. Sharing the original blog links and directing others back to Ray’s Room to access the pattern helps support my work and future free Crochet Alongs - thank you so much for respecting that.